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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.